When the conversation begins - and it will begin - he may lean in like LBJ strong-arming Abe Fortas or he may cross his arms and listen soberly, recalling a young Raymond Burr in court. First, a warm greeting is proffered by a cadre of bartenders (also adults, as proven by their collective demeanor, like friendly surgeons handling cocktail shakers instead of scalpels) who, second, wear the 'Men in Black' attire of professionals while, third, the big grinning guy coming at you with look on his face that's half pleasure at seeing you and all business about getting you seated and sipping, is John. When you walk through the door at Marty's, three things are immediately apparent. Remember those? I mean adults, not cocktail lounges - those full grown human beings who frequent an establishment not for hot wings or hot chicks or televised sports packages or trivia nights, but for good booze mixed well by people who treat the creation of a worthy drink like the important work that it is, and who can converse intelligently while doing it. every day of the year, and for the record, it's a cocktail lounge for adults.

The room is dark and clubby, close quarters but comfortable, open from 5 p.m.